It's so peculiar- I feel as though I have been away for months, but it's only been three days.
On Saturday afternoon I went to Dumfries by train, via Carlisle. As usual, the west coast service was late (the doors got stuck at Preston and we then followed a slow train up the line, they told us). I caught the Dumfries train by the skin of my teeth. Many drunken Scotsmen and their families were on board, talking at maximum volume. A young girl sat opposite me and smiled, then did a bunk at Gretna Green after the conductor asked for her ticket.
The hotel was very 'Blackpool'. There were no batteries in the TV remote, the curtains didn't close, and the used tissue with lipstick on it told a story of unwashed sheets. Oh, the joys of travelling. I also forgot the toothpaste and had to brush my teeth with bubblebath. Delicious, refreshing!
There are three buses to Gatehouse Of Fleet from Dumfries on Sundays. Apparently the dastardly company Stagecoach used to run the service, but pulled out after they asked the council for more money and the council said 'no'. But in Scotland the buses show up and fill up, gradually. It was an easy journey.
The Galloway countryside is completely beautiful: it is lush, intensely green and it undulates with small hills. At Castle Douglas, a huge bull made of wicker glowered across the park at the bus full of Sunday morning travellers.
The closer we got to Gatehouse, the more relaxed I felt. There are roots of McMum's family there: her father was brought up by
his schoolmaster father in the village. Most summers, we packed ourselves into the car and drove over from Northumberland for a chilly, sticky (it was the salt in the sand) holiday at Sandgreen, which is a perfect beach for children. I remember the turnoff after the journey: there was a garden on the corner full of garden gnomes, something that seemed magical and exotic and that would have seemed like a mistake of the imagination, a mistake of the light, but they were there every year.
With several hours to kill before the gig, I went to the Mill Café, where an open mic fringe event had already started. This village loves its music! I was asked to play a couple of songs and checked in with the festival organiser Alan McLure, who said it was fine. There was a lot of great singing and playing, all embedded in storytelling; even the cover versions had significance to the people singing them.
After a while, I went to the lovely little park which was absolutely humming with the aroma of roses. That's where I finished the song about Vi Subversa, sitting on a bench surrounded by flowers and soft sunshine.
When I got to the Community Centre (great grandfather's old school building, now repurposed), the other musicians of the afternoon were there, a duo called Sunshine and the Silver Seams. They started the afternoon off with a set of perfectly-pitched folk-pop, with such tight harmonies that they seemed to sing as one. The community centre was pretty packed and they got a wonderful reception.
Actually, the whole afternoon was really great. I'd made a set list that had everything from the more emotional side of things (All I Want Is The Sun To Shine For You) to the damn silly (At The Bathing Pond), and there was some delightfully lusty singing for the latter which continued for the encore, Three Cheers for Toytown, which sprouted rather a lot of extra human-sung trumpet breaks when it became apparent that the audience participation wasn't going to stop! What a lovely, welcoming community of people. They had listened to the words, which doesn't always happen. I got compared to both Victoria Wood and the Marine Girls, and was told a wonderful anecdote about an incident at a Poison Girls gig witnessed by the Treasurer's partner (shhh!). There was lots more chatting afterwards, and to round the afternoon off, I had a raspberry ice cream before getting the bus back to Dumfries.
While waiting for the train at Dumfries next morning and to escape the diesel fumes, I walked along the platform to an inadvertent little nature reserve where there was a lovely aroma of lime trees, some unusual bright red weeds, and the discarded empty fur suit-skin of a poor rabbit that had been feasted on, probably by a buzzard or something.
On that train, a woman tried to photograph her friend and took a picture of her bare foot instead, much to the merriment of everyone around her. The train guard was whistling Sing Hosanna slightly out of tune for the whole journey, which I imagine might be rather threatening for a young person wishing to bunk their fare. Travelling back through Carlisle, I managed to resist some rolls of leopardskin wallpaper that were for sale in a charity shop for practically nothing. I have no spare wall space, alas.
I sat and ate a sandwich in the sun, and a gull stalked me for ages before making a swoop. I'd already seen two huge gulls barking aggressively at a man innocently eating a marmite sandwich (he told me) on a bench, so I wasn't having it. There was a discarded cup of cold tea on the table, and I chucked the tea at the gull and shouted 'YAH!'. It got the shock of its life and flew off to a polite distance, throwing me slightly hurt glances to try to spoil my lunch. No way, hosepipe! Go to eat some fish and leave me alone.
I was quite surprised at how assertive I felt. Must keep this, must keep this, note to self.
So that was a lot of travel, but it was definitely worth it to play such a gem of a gig!